2 Happy Bunnies Travel the World

One day I happened to say to my husband, wouldn't it be nice if one day we could walk out of the house with just a backpack and a map, no plans, no pre determined destination and travel? I got no response, just the quiet tick of cogs turning as he sat thinking of my out of the blue (and what I considered rather rash dream). Which is how come, 4 years later I am now writing this blog from Cartagena in Colombia!

Turns out my wild dreams of travel were shared, and together we spent the next 4 years dreaming, planning, plotting, saving, YouTubing, and making designs on our retirement so that we could fulfil our dream of adventure. Did I also mention that on telling our daughter of our plans, we got told in no uncertain terms, well your not going without me!! Turns out that certain wonderful schools allow their teachers to take a sabbatical to follow their lifetime ambition to also travel the world!

So here we are. 2.1 very happy bunnies setting off on a wild roller coaster of a ride, 15 months of World Travel. Sometimes together, sometimes apart, the three of us are hopping, sorry about the terrible bunny pun, to visit 4 continents, tick off many bucket list items, and generally get out there and live a little.

You must be rich! Did I mention the fact we are backpacking with no illusions of grand hotels, or spa resorts? Cheap and Cheerful little hostels and best friends with Booking.com is the way we shall be travelling, at least until we reach a certain slightly less budget friendly country, but more about that in the future.

You must be fit and very active! Ha, if only! the .1 little bunny ticks that box, but the two more worldly and lets just say older and ever so slightly chubby bunnies, tick every box bar the fit and active ones. One of us has a dodgy back, the other 2 dodgy knees, and both are hearing the whispers of the word arthritis, boo sucks. But here we are, doing it all the same.

Who knows what tomorrow may bring? When opportunity knocks, grab him by the bunny balls and go for it.

How did you choose/know where to go? Dear Google, Cheapest countries? South America, Asia, (ok, now I'm nervous), but lets do some research. YouTube, another new friend. Turns out all the main must see places in South America follow a well trodden backpacker route called the very apt Gringo Trail. So we dived in with both feet, booked 3 flights to Cartagena and plotted a 5 month trip from the most Northern (ish) part of South America, to its very tip, Ushuaia, via all the best gringo hotspots (thank you BBC Race Across the World for teaching us the correct pronunciation of Ushuaia. :-)

First Stop. Cartagena Colombia.

I admit to feeling exceptionally nervous about visiting Colombia, and I have no idea why. We have all heard the stories, but lets face it, every city in the world has its own troubles, but we don't flinch when visiting them, so why here? I still don't know. The people we have met these past two days have been amongst the nicest and most friendliest people I have ever been around. To break us in gently to the land of South America, and Colombia in particular, I chose the Bocagrande area of Cartagena. A long spit of land just to the south of Cartagena, known for long sandy beaches, lovely hotels and upmarket living. We enjoyed the atmosphere of this place, even with its abundance of hawkers. No thank you, not today, or maybe later becomes our most used phrases. Everything from massages (sounds wonderful, but not on a backpackers bucket list) necklaces, so beautiful, hats, surely you must need a hat? food, scarves, dominoes, you name it they come round selling it. It is difficult at first to repeatedly say no to the lovely people, but you just have to. Unless of course you are in the market for a little indulgence. 3 days here and we moved to another part of Cartagena called Getsemani. What an overwhelming riot of colour awaits you as you leave Bocagrande and enter the little area of Getsemani. Wall art, street art, graffiti art, flags, bunting, umbrellas adorn the small winding streets. I believe this area was once a poorer not much visited neighbourhood, but now its an area not to be missed. Beautiful women in traditional dress stand outside their restaurants with smiles to brighten the dullest days. The ladies in their Palenque dresses with baskets of fruit sat jauntily perched on their heads call to you for lovely photographs (at a small charge of course..) From Getsemani it's a short walk across the bridge to the castle of San Filipe with its huge flag, and amazing views across the water to the wider area of Cartagena. Bigger than it looks from a distance, this castle/fortress, is well worth a visit. Not so much so is the exceptionally busy Chocolate Museum opposite. Busy because it is cool and airconditioned after the heat of the steep walks around the castle, but I'm afraid delicious as it may be, chocolate (expensive chocolate) and heat make for poor friends. We tried to order two drinks, a chocolate beer and a chocolate drink, funnily enough though they had run out of both!! I will breeze over the museum part..as they say, nothing to see here. The last days of our stay in Cartagena we spent in the old town. Via Central Park...every walk we took we went via this town park. Sloths in trees! Who knew you could find sloths in trees in a park so close to a town. Not just sloths either, little monkeys, and iguanas also roam freely. Just wander into the park, look up and look puzzled, and very soon one of the very many water sellers or park keepers will be there at your side happily pointing out the various trees in which the sloths live. They ask for nothing, but buy their water please its a small token of gratitude that goes a long way. The sloths by the way came to be in the park when a person was seen a long time ago trying to remove a sloth from its correct habitat. Confiscated and rehomed in the town park these lovely slow sleepy animals are now thriving in this new home.

Cartagena old town. Best entered via the Clock Tower, this is yet another area of Cartagena quite unlike the other two places we visited. A walled city with an abundance of small streets with balconies overhead, quite different to the bright colours of Getsemani, the Old Town or Centro could best be described as elegant? Beautiful little boutique shops on every street, a little pricy but so lovely. The first evening we went to the Old Town it was to await the return of our daughter from her boat trip to the Rosario Islands, for more info on that and a very entertaining YouTube/Instagram, follow @miss.tiff.travels . Happy Birthday Cartagena! 491 years young. The whole town was celebrating that evening. There was a stage, singers, live music, and food stalls aplenty. If they celebrate yearly, which I imagine they might as 491 is quite an odd number to celebrate, the first weekend in June is the date you are looking for.

Minca. leaving Cartagena we caught a bus to the coastal town of Santa Marta, and a taxi to the hillside town of Minca. This small unassuming little town is a small taste of a green paradise. Set amongst the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, this beautiful area has earned itself the title of Ecological Capital of the Country, and its not hard to see why. I truly wish I could say that I had explored this area a little more thoroughly but the need for rest was more important. Our lovely little hostel has a roof balcony with a full length open window which gave me/us our very own piece of National Geographic, natures television. Following a day of rest, we followed our feet to the famous Pozo Azul waterfall, a pleasant walk through the trees, led us to the waterfall. Grateful that so many were walking towards us, as on reaching the waterfall, we could see how quickly it could become crowded. Leaving Pozo Azul, we headed to our next waterfall, name I cannot recall, it was sign posted, Hidden Waterfall. A rather treacherous and quite challenging path in places, we reached this little gem. Not as grand as Pozo Azul, but the moment we landed on the sandy area next to the waterfall, the heavens opened and a tropical deluge of warm rain descended on us , forcing us to quickly abandon our explorations. To say the trek back up was challenging would be an understatement. The following day we rose at 5am, with a plan to go on a Bird watching tour. Picked up at our hostel by 3 motorbike taxis at 5.55am we were pillioned (woo hooo) down the hill to the town where we met up with our guide and 3 other couples. A quick guide on how to use binoculars without falling over, a quick bout of local bird spotting in the nearest trees, and we were off. Walking through tiny paths, passing what I can only describe as tree houses, houses on stilts on the side of the mountain each with its own incredible views. Our guide pointed out bird after bird after bird. I now know that bird watching is an art form of wandering binoculars, aimed at birds that are definitely not where you thought they were, and a sore neck. I saw lots of birds, they all had wings. Humble apologies to the bird watchers out there, but there are only so many times I can say woo hoo, to yet another little yellow bird even if it is the lesser spotted female version of the other 36 previous sightings of little yellow birds. I admit there was a black one, and one with a tufty head, and another with a white tum. Ask me to name them? nope, not a scooby. I like a nice bird, but "look that`s a nice looking bird" ticks every box for me. Apart from the hummingbirds. I could watch those little guys all day long. The walk minus the birds was wonderful. Even the wading across the little river because the rains had washed away the path was no hardship. Then just at the point when our guide was about to point out yet another flying doofer with a beak, he laughed and called out look Toucan! there!! Oh my goodness a real life Toucan in all its glory. My day was made up. Unable to get my camera to focus that far to take a suitable photograph, I decided that as I had seen it with my own eyes, pinching a cheat photo from the guy the 15` foot lens, was perfectly acceptable. My time in Minca is coming to a close, and I wish I could stay forever. A village well worth coming to, but come soon, as it is sadly clear that as tourism to this charming place is expanding, areas of this pristine unspoilt simple landscape will be lost to the concrete jungle of the more discerning clientele.

Medellin, via Cartagena..

Another long bus ride from the town of Minca, I should mention here that I had quite clearly forgotten just how far into the mountains Minca actually is, as you traverse down the mountain with more twists and bends than a soap opera. The road seemed to go on forever, getting less and less green the closer we got to the town of Santa Marta. Not the best bus ride back to Cartagena, it was very very hot, with not the greatest of air con. The free Wifi was awesome, for a whole 15 mins, then zip, nada, nothing. I mention our return to Cartagena as quite by chance I had booked an overnight stay in yet another little suburb of the Old Town, an area called Centro. Such a great little hostel, the ceilings were so high, it made the room seem so airy. A bed like a brick and I slept like a log. Maybe that`s the new key for comfort ratings? Centro, the place to find smaller less designer and more local yet still tourist type shops, street food on every corner that just makes your mouth water and makes you wish (makes me wish) I was a little braver to try such foods just in case there wasn`t a banos nearby..if you catch my drift. Fruit of every colour just cries out to be eaten.

The airport, just a short distance away beckoned us at 6pm for a 55 minute flight to Medellin.

Medellin. A city unlike any other city we have been to before, not just Colombia, anywhere. We entered the city late at night via the newly built 7km tunnel that brought you out with the city of Medellin displayed in all its glory down below us. Tiny pin pricks of lights for as far as the eye could see. In the valley, the hills, the mountains all littered with little fairy lights. How big this city, the second largest in Colombia really is, would reveal itself the following day as we explored the oldest part of the town with a guided tour. The tour guide was brilliant, giving us a candid view of the city, from the days of old and the gold miners, to the more gritty and possibly misguided view that may or may not rule peoples perceptions of this lovely country today. Drug capital of the world you are probably screaming at me, yes, maybe, but not in the way you assume. I`m not going to elaborate here, but lets just say Colombia, and Medellin in particular, has the most complicated, multi tiered, intertwined, fascinating, sad, complex, vibrant, resilient and amazing culture that should be respected and admired. Be mindful when you visit, but not fearful. Comuna 13. Once upon a time this area of Medellin was considered the most dangerous area in the world. A certain date in 1993 changed all that. I have no intention of giving said person any kind of platform, but as per our guide, lets just say Voldemort came to a sticky end, and the Comuna 13 of Medellin through passionate, positive and proactive determination to change its image, has succeeded with more energy than anyone could believe. Their history is complicated, their future is still complicated but thanks to its positivity and willingness to embrace change, Comuna 13 is a district to be commended for its love of its people, their devotion to music, dance, art and DJ`s . The escalators to the upper levels are adorned with beautiful graffiti art, not to be confused with scruffy spray can vandalised walls, these graffiti murals are just breath taking. So much colour, everywhere. Visit the Comuna 13, and you will love it.

Guatape, a town that featured often on our `how to travel South America favourite You Tubes` We knew we had to go and see this amazing place for ourselves. Leaving Medellin on a small but very comfy little bus, we drove through some of the most beautiful countryside we have seen so far. A far cry from the small shanty towns that we passed from Santa Marta, this lovely bus journey was so green, flowers, well kept colourful little houses, big estancias , mowed grass fields, fat cows and skinny horses, we saw it all. Arriving into Guatape we landed at the small town square. Not choosing to rest, we wandered the town and were mesmerised by the array of tiny colourful cobbled streets, little alleys with their relief panels adorning each house, these panels, or zocolas, each tell their own little story, a school, a baker, a stubborn mule, or maybe just coloured squares. Walls depicting some of the most beautiful wall art, butterflies, hummingbirds or parrots on every street and building. One street is lined with colourful umbrellas, and yet more frescos. This ridiculously cute vibrant little town should be on everyone`s bucket list. Just outside of Guatape, is the big rock, dress it how you will, but it really is a very big high rock, with a huge fissure down one side, that some smart Alec one day thought, I bet if we built a staircase in that gap, people would come to climb our la Piedra, and build that staircase they did. All 750 steps worth. An exceptionally touristy spot, but ignore all that, just go early, go prepared, go with half decent fitness, (ha!) and go knowing that if you plan to climb to the top, and are just a little afraid of heights, go with a pig headed stubborn determined attitude to succeed. Keep your head down, your eyes on the stairs, and advance 25 steps at a time. It also helps if you take a couple of extra bunnies to cajole, coax, persuade and generally offer you moral support. I promise you I have never been as scared in my life. But come hell or high water I was climbing to the top of that damned rock! Yes, I had a paddy, yes I cried, not by choice but by sheer panic and stress. Did I climb crouched down below the eye level of the hand rail? You bet, did I reach the top? Yes !!! Yes Yes Yes! Is it worth the heart pounding fear? Yes, more than just a little bit. The view from the top is nothing short of spectacular. Every direction you look is a view so picture perfect your camera will be begging you to take one more photo, one more.. Once you have taken every view possible, why not treat yourself to a drink or ice cream, because we all know every good place has either a cafe at the top and or a souvenir shop, and Guatape rock is no exception. Once you have had your fill of amazing views, return to the stairs for an equally challenging decent. Unlike the climb up, these stairs meander behind the main stairs, and are set back a little more into the rock itself. Steep, winding and spiralling, but I hasten to add with many many open views to the daylight for anyone with a more claustrophobic disposition. aka me. But, I promise you I am back on terra firma, so the rock whilst challenging, was well worth the tears and terrors.

Tut tut, I missed out the tuk tuk. After wandering the streets on our arrival, we got into a tuk tuk for the most fun ride to our slightly out of town hotel. Who knew 2 chubby bunnies, one skinny bunny, 3 backpacks, 3 rucksacks, 2 hand bags, a partridge in a pear tree and a driver could fit into a tuk tuk. Well they do. And if you want to come down from the car park of Guatape rock to street level, the little tuk tuk takes on the persona of a soap boxer racer. Hang on for grim life, and laugh like you mean it.

Salento. Not a place I had planned on visiting, but the smallest bunny stamped its little feet and so to Salento we went. Tuk Tuk to town, local bus back to Medellin, Terminal Norte, as every website tells you that is the correct bus station. No, it is not. You need Terminal Sur. Another local bus through the worst traffic ever, to the correct station, to find a coach to Salento. Arriving late into the evening, we fell, literally out of the taxi into our most fun hostel to date. Why fell? I swear the worlds steepest street is not in New Zealand, if it is, then our hostel street in Salento came in a close second. Why visit Salento? Think Encanto, and thank Disney, this is the town that inspired the film, and its not hard to see why. Humble apologies for using the word ` colourful` yet again, but if the cap fits! Salento is the cutest little town, but it is more the base for the spectacular Cocora Valley with its immensely tall palm trees. Not found anywhere else in the world, these palm trees are well worth the walk. To get there hop into or onto, (tell you about that in a sec) one of the very many waiting jeeps, and enjoy the most fun 30 min ride to the valley entrance. 8 people ride inside the jeeps, whilst two people, usually the male variety, but also adventurous bunnies, ride on the foot plate at the back hanging on for dear life. Eat your heart out British Health and Safety. You are dropped off at the car park and from there it is a short walk to the start of the Cocora Valley walk. Two choices, 12 km or 2km. Even the little bunny decided 2km was plenty. Straight away you are hit with a large array of super touristy `props`. You will cringe, but you will still take the I was here photo. Leave these behind, and I promise the walk to the second of the 2 view points is more than worth it. Do I want to go all that way to see a couple of extra tall palm trees? Yes, yes you do.

A few lessons learned so far. Sink taps and showers come in one flavour. Cold. Buses come in two flavours, Bake or Freeze. 4 years of watching what to pack on You Tube, does not mean you will remember to pack a bra, enough underwear or to not pack 3 t shirts of the same colour. I did however remember to pack a sink plug, door stop, 3 packs of playing cards and a carbon dioxide monitor. Mr bunny wishes he had listened to Mrs bunny and packed a little more of just about everything, however Mrs Bunny is grateful for the extra space in the big bunny bag for her anticipated purchases. Little bunny found out that Colombia has the most amazing clothes for petite bunnies and is now wishing that the backpack and the budget was bigger. Your new favourite word is Banos. Pronounce this however you wish, you will always get corrected. Gracias and No gracias are used on a regular alternative basis. Your confidence of knowing you spent months learning other Spanish phrases will quickly be zapped when you abruptly realise these wonderful people talk at a 100 miles an hour, barely pausing for breath, making you whisper to your bunny partner `what did he/she just say?` Either take up charades instead before you leave, or accept that google translate is just awesome. If you really, really cannot understand, smile enthusiastically and say Si ! You will now either be going on a walking tour or volunteering for the army. Talking of the army, practise blank nonchalant non-committal facial expressions if one should happen to get on your bus armed with a bloody great gun!

Bogota. Fly. The end. We caught the bus from Salento, and started off well. Our comfy little coach positively speed chugged his little way up that first mountain, we passed everything on the road, and the views as we climbed into the clouds were just breath taking. And then the fun started, strictly no overtaking, and just about every mode of transport uses that mountain pass, from bikes, taxis and buses, to humungous low loaders that just so happen to be towing a broken down bus, and in front of us. 2 hours we hugged that broken buses backside until we were finally able to pass it. More spectacular scenery, doing well, chugging along nicely now, until the roadworks started. Never again will you curse the M25. These were not roads being repaired, these were roads being rebuilt and re routed from foundation upwards. We knew the speed as we moved painfully inch by inch by reading the speedos of passing bikes. 12 kph. All the way into Bogota. 1 hour and 50 mins we travelled 9 km.

Bogota city. Colombia`s biggest city. Would I come again? probably not. Not certain if too much prior research, first impressions, or the advice to not wander around particular areas especially at night skewed my initial impression, or the fact that we appeared to land when apparently the biggest rally of striking teachers in the history of Colombia was taking place in the cities biggest squares rendering them out of bounds. The entire centre of Bogota was a mass of armed police, security agents, street police with guard dogs wearing muzzles, (exclude the golden retriever with his lack of need for a muzzle on his goofy looking face) Another guard dog was also quite literally leaning on a lamp post, so maybe they don`t take the guard dog persona to heart. Is Bogota usually so well armed, I don`t know. Did we feel safe, both yes and no. Bogota has had an explosive past with a gritty political history. The rallies were peaceful, but the buildings on the public squares were still covered in black netting for their own protection against vandalism and graffiti. We went on a walking tour to learn about the city of Bogota, interesting to a point, but a little too heavy on the political instabilities for my liking. Someone described Bogota as gritty, I would describe it as your average working city. Pockets of interesting streets here and there, occasional amazing street art, but mostly your average spray paint graffitied buildings, a working city nothing more, nothing less. The best bits? The Bogota Gold Museum. That`s a must. So much gold in one place, all or most pre b.c and all of it just beautiful, intricate and fascinating. Monserrate, one of two hills that dominates the skyline of Bogota. Get to the top either by cable car, funicular railway, or for the super fit, shank`s pony, and be rewarded with the most spectacular views of the whole city. Don`t go on a Sunday, the church on the top is a much loved local place of worship.

Colombia. You have been amazing. We have loved you. Your colours, your happiness, your welcoming nature, your coffee, your scenery, your art. Not so crazy about your lack of tea bags, or chocolate, but will we return? Yes. Absolutely.