Cambodia

A slightly different start to my blog this time, but bear with me. This is a story that everyone should know and no one must forget.

"Shall we go to Cambodia? See Angkor Wat, maybe Phnom Penh for a few days and learn a bit about their history of which we know only bits". That was the plan, our unscripted loosely researched, plan.

As children we had learned via Blue Peter about the genocide (what did that mean?) and from John Craven the war in Kampuchea. (9 year old me, that`s Africa isn`t it?) Both bunnies had heard the name Pol Pot, the Khmer Rouge, little Bunny knew Cambodia had had a war. As years have passed these tragic events became just a blurred memory. As adults, Kampuchea or present day Cambodia was a country we wanted to visit, now having learned exactly where in the world it lay, specifically for Angkor Wat. The war is over, the country is at peace. To say we were unprepared for the raw, brutal reality that this beautiful country suffered for 3 years 8 months and 20 days was an understatement.

Every person in this country knows exactly how long that genocide lasted. What we learned whilst here has made for a sombre, sobering, thought provoking and haunting start to our time in Cambodia.

You probably know about Auschwitz, but does S-21 mean anything to you? On a quiet street in the middle of old Phnom Penh lies a converted high school. Its conversion? A prison. Now a museum. Of the 20,000 people who were incarcerated here during its time, just 12 survived. No person placed in the prison was to remain a prisoner, they were there purely to be killed. Men, Women, Children, there was no discrimination. Torture, then kill. No person was allowed to die naturally if avoidable. To die naturally was considered a crime. Together we walked around this brutal untouched prison, listening to audio guides that gripped your heart in an iron fist. Every prisoner was bound by the rule of strictest silence. Nobody had to know they were there. No chain, cough or rustle was to be heard. Beatings, torture of the most vicious incomprehensible nature were to be endured in silence. Noise meant death. We listened over and over to stories of the most heinous crimes, performed on the most innocent of souls. S-21 was only one of many such prisons. This was the worst. On the final day of the prison, the 14 political prisoners, each in their own classroom/torture cell, was photographed in the position in which they were found. The photographs taken hang in each cell. A reminder of the atrocity that occurred there. Each photograph is displayed with raw emotion, with the most emotive elements carefully blurred. When bullets were banned due to cost, and noise, hammers and pickaxes took their place.

S-21

Over and over we walked in silence through the converted classrooms, with chalkboards bearing the marks of the last lesson still hanging in one corner. We tried to stand together in one of the cells, but we didn't fit, such was the tight space. At the end of the `tour` we had the privilege of meeting 4 of the 12 survivors. They sit in the grounds, and are proud to tell their story of survival. We felt humbled.

A survivor

There were between 1.5 to 2 million people slaughtered during these 3 years, 8 months and 20 days. That equated to 25% of the entire population of Cambodia. One in every 4 murdered. From the prisons, people were transported to the Killing Fields. Our next stop.

Just 4km from the prison, not very far from the city of Phnom Penh lies a piece of open land. The Killing Field. Protected by a wall, and now a protected area, it was to this area that first weekly, then later daily, a truck containing the prisoners from S21 were brought to be slaughtered. The unmade road track ends near large undulations in the ground. Dragged to the ground, their throats crudely slit with the barbed branches of the trees that grow nearby to prevent these souls from crying out, each and every man and woman was brutally murdered, their bodies cast into the open pit. Small children were brutally murdered against the Killing Tree. There were hundreds of these `Killing Fields` dotted around Cambodia, but it is here at Choeung Ek that the haunting memorial to the victims was built.

With Respect. The Killing Fields.

Research will tell you that `bones and material fragments can be still be seen, and when it rains and the ground loosens, more and more bone fragments rise to the surface`. They can, but in minute forms. Don`t go to the Killing Fields expecting a macabre sight, it isn`t. It is a field of indentations and sombre memorials. Whilst tiny bone fragments, may catch your eye, and the hint of cloth, don`t go guarded or worried about seeing whole skeletons, or buried bodies, go to walk in Silent Remembrance, go and pay your respects. Wander quietly, listen to the audio guide stories, imagine as you walk, every person you stand with, murdered, for no reason, and never ever let the memory of the Killing fields, and the genocide of Cambodia be forgotten.

The Memorial dedicated to all those murdered.

Our taxi driver, aged 50 lost his father. A tour guide said his family was lost. Pol Pot, the man responsible for the genocide lived a normal life and died aged 76.

It was never my intention to start any blog in such a thought provoking, sad, graphic manner, but when the reality of genocide stares you in the face, I felt it deserved some respect. I could not in good conscience fail to acknowledge, especially after visiting the Genocide Museum, and The Killing Fields, the modern and recent history of this country. The people of Cambodia are delightful, wonderful and amazing. Their kindness and hospitality is beyond compare, but their older generation lived, those who were allowed to live that is, a brutal and traumatic few years.

Phnom Penh

With the thoughts of the museum and the fields still in the forefront of our minds, we very much felt lost in our thoughts during our remaining time in the city. We chose instead to stay close to home, which was a short walk away from S21, playing cards, writing, researching and reading. We did however opt to take an evening tuk tuk tour which was fun and interesting, and lightened our mood quite quickly as we were driven through the stunning modern city streets of new P.P. in a cute little 4 bunny sized tuktuk Such a rapidly evolving city, it is super modern and quite beautiful. A number of our stops involved looking at statues of people whose names I have forgotten, I think one was Mrs Penh, of Phnom Penh fame, the next was a golden stupor, with a snake in front (shame on me, but I totally failed to take in the names of the statues and temples we visited) we paused at an old, but still in use railway siding, not entirely certain why, but the lonely old steam train made for a nice photo. From there we went to the French Quarter to see the oldest building in Phnom Penh, the Cambodia Post Office Building, I tried to look impressed, but given that it was built 100 years after my own house, I failed to see it as `old`. To another nice monument, this time a more recent build commemorating the separation of Cambodia from France. Any country that breaks away from France deserves a big fancy monument. Crossing the nice new bridge all lit up in the colours of the Cambodian flag, we paused at our last stop, the unfortunately named Arc `de Triumph, a very commanding white arch way, that has been built alongside the most stunning set of modern, gated condos you have ever seen, and all empty! It was so odd. They were absolutely gorgeous looking properties, but as our driver said, empty because they are just too expensive. And still they build more. Classy looking buildings stand empty everywhere, not in the old city just the new and its outskirts. Our driver had no explanation for the continuous building, he didnt know who was building all the new properties, he just shrugged his shoulders and said `they`.

Our time in the city was coming to an end and faced with yet another long bus ride to Siem Reap, Mr Bunny booked us a private taxi instead. The price difference compared to the bus was very favourable, and a private driver meant not having to endure another journey of noisy passengers listening to their phones without headphones. A new pet hate. It also meant we could stop at will, and not where 20 other buses chose to stop. The journey was surprisingly easy, the driver spoke very good English, was very pleasant, and quite unhurried. He told us he lived in Siem Reap, and that he was a tour guide there. Naturally we were happy to take him up on his offer to give us guided tours to Kulan Mountain, waterfalls, and to Angkor Wat itself in the following days.

Cambodia is a very flat country, with endless stretches of green fields, and quite possibly it was the draw of seeing green hills or mountains after endless cities that sparked our interest in visiting the mountain. Picked up at 9am, we first drove to the town centre to purchase our Kulan mountain tickets from the equivalent of our tourist information, then headed out of town in the general direction of what appeared to be a lump on the horizon. The nearer we got, the bigger it got, (naturally) . First stop was at an unmade car park near to a stream, here we were supposed to able to see 1000 lingas that lie along the edge of the water. Unfortunately for us, it is the rainy season, and heavy rains of the previous evening had swollen the river leaving the stone marking barely visible. What we could see however was impressive. Stone carvings, set out like an oversized chess board, half the markings show a square with an indentation, the other half have raised centres in a short stubby circular patten. They represent male and female, and you can make your mind up which was which.

The next stop along the narrow stream ended at a Buddha statue and another pond. In said pond was meant to be a fine example of another stone statue. We had to take his word for it, as all we could see were floating leaves and mossy debris. Such a shame, but mother nature does as she pleases, and if we were not meant to see, then so be it. Our next drive was an upwards direction. Rather pleased actually that the car was able to transport the three bunnies up the mountain, as it would have been rather a long hop. What a deceptive drive. Through trees, more trees, more unmade road, and finally a stop at the clearing. Over there he pointed, and be careful. We made our way carefully to where he pointed, and wow, what a vista awaited us. We truly were on the edge of a precipice looking out over miles and miles of jungle scenery. Non of the bunnies ventured near the edge as it really was an awfully long way down. When our eyes had feasted, it was back in the car to visit yet another temple. This one was a little odd, and a touch unique. Once upon a time a huge rock was lying quietly minding its own business, when a person with a hammer, chisel and a determined mindset, bashed away at its upper level to make one side of this rock into a lying Buddha. This special rock was then surrounded by a wooden building to protect it, with far too many steps, and a new temple was formed. Whilst there were quite a few tourists there, and naturally the usual mini markets stall of pointless tourist sh.t (TS) it was quiet enough to have space to think and enjoy the greenery and open space. Our driver did take us then to a waterfall, but as waterfalls go we all felt it was pretty meh, We had to assume that public outdoor swimming venues are few and far between in Siem Reap, as at the lower waterfall, there were metal baskets in which to store your clothing and several rubber rings in the shape of ducks to be hired. 5 minutes here was 4 too many, and we were happy to retreat to the cool air con of the car and return to our hotels in Siem Reap.

Angkor Wat.

That place of enigmatic beauty, the one you have been dreaming of seeing with your own eyes. From endless days of writing our must see world icon wish list, today was the day we fulfilled one our dreams. Naturally little B wanted to see it in all its magnificent glory, which meant a 4am get up, and a 5am pre dawn taxi collection. (yawn) The previous day, Mr Rey, the taxi driver and guide, had told us that most hotels in Siem Reap were geared up to provide tourists with take away breakfasts for the early morning starts. Two bunnies duly collected picnic bags of breakfast food, whilst little B was in a hostel that did not pamper to such requests. There would be plenty to share. We were swiftly driven to the entrance of Angkor Wat, and pointed in the direction of the temple complex. We darn near ran along the road to grab a spot prior to the sun rising. Were we alone? Not a chance. We quite probably saw more tourists at 5.15am at Angkor Wat, then we have in our past 12 months of travel. There is more than one temple, and we climbed the ruins to watch the sun rise. Mr B nabbed himself a fine spot near the moat to capture `that` photo of Angkor Wat with its reflection in the water. If I had to be brutally honest, the whole sunrise at Angkor Wat was a little underwhelming, due to the fact that the sun is so bright behind the temples, and cast the temple itself into a very dark shadow. So dark in fact it was actually quite difficult to see it. This was quite unlike the fabulous sunrise at Uluru when the whole rock was bathed in natural light. Once the sun had risen a little more, we headed towards the temple complex and found ourselves a quiet set of stairs to enjoy our buffet breakfast. Never in my wildest dreams did I ever think I would be sat eating boiled eggs on the steps of Angkor Wat, Cambodia, at dawn, but we did. We ate the eggs. The mosquitoes ate us, well Mr Bunny specifically. Bunnies two and three were left unscathed. Angkor Wat is huge, far far bigger than I had realised. And it has steps. Hundreds and hundreds of steps. We went on a day that was not Buddha Day, which meant we were allowed to climb the stairs (the new stairs I add) to the very top. We entered the temple and wowed our way from stone room to stone room. Whilst not dazzling with painted rooms or decor, each and every room stunned with its architectural brilliance. Quite incredible how such a huge building still stands, but the stone work is just phenomenal (!) Up steps, down steps, up, down, up and down. After a while you get a bit stone crazy, ,however seeing all that intricate craftwork is quite awe inspiring. We could, maybe we should, have got a guide, but truth be known, clever as it is, we don`t really care that this was a kitchen or that was a loo (whether it was or not) We were hot. Very, very, very hot. All the bunnies walked the temples in clothes that you could have wrung out, such was the heat and humidity, and it was still not yet 8am.

We again satiated our eyes at Angkor Wat, and left around 8.30am. We were then taken to yet another temple, forgive me if i say `same same but different...and to then yet another. The only difference in temple number three was the fact that Mr Rey failed to mention that we would naturally be herded to the exit at the opposite end of the complex to where he dropped us off, leaving us to the mercy of a million tuk tuk drivers all convinced that we needed driving to the other entrance. Not only did we not need the service of a tuk tuk driver as we waited for Mr Rey to remember that he needed to move, we also did not require hats, fans, t shirts, shawls, cold drinks (although.....) or sun umbrellas. Arghhhh people, leave us alone !!

At last Mr R arrived, and we escaped in the direction of a nice cafe for a slightly more substantial and rather more expensive breakfast. After enjoying the peace of this quiet cafe the cool of its fans, it was time to leave for our last temple. This was given no name, other than `Tomb Raider Temple`. Of said film fame. Whilst I have not seen the film myself, this particular temple very quickly became our favourite. Saving the best for last I suppose. Set in the jungle and left to nature, the temples are now standing entwined within the branches and roots of massive trees. Standing being the correct word. How the heck do these structures still remain intact (mostly) whilst so entwined in a network of roots? All three bunnies had fun wandering this less than perfect ruin, gawping at ceilings made of tree. There has clearly been a little rebuilding, protection, structural supports added, where temples two and three had not, but I guess that`s what film fame does for a building.

Angkor Wat. Huge. Magnificent, splendid, and stunning. Whilst you could spend several days here going from temple to temple, unless you are addicted to old ruins, personally I would say a good few hours is more than sufficient.

Siem Reap

Of all the places we have stayed recently, Siem Reap was a favourite. If time had allowed we would quite happily have spent far longer here. Such an easy going, friendly, spread out town. With no structure built over 5 storeys, it gave the whole town a feeling of space. No crowds, no hassle, just a lovely little town in which you could cheerfully spend a week just relaxing, most especially when the most stunning of hotels cost the same as a flea pit in Blackpool! We are out of season, May, so that should be a consideration, but a very nice place to be.

Any moments that caused us any grumbles? Just the one. For the first time we gave in to a tuktuk driver offering us a city tour. It was so hot, we fancied the ease of a ride. We should have known better, when stops two and three were at fancy overpriced jewellery stores. Please just spend 6 minutes here so that I can get a petrol voucher was the pat. Whilst neither shop particularly hassled us to buy anything, it was not on our plan to visit such shops. With a large town just begging to driven around, it made us cross that our time was hijacked. Lucky for Little B, when on our way back to the hotel, we spotted her hopping along the roadside, and offered her a lift.

We really enjoyed our time in Cambodia once the shock of the reality of the genocide left our minds, but not our memories, and would definitely consider coming again to see other places.

Thank you for your hospitality Cambodia, we have loved staying with you.