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Sardinia

  • Tracey Earl
  • 10 minutes ago
  • 8 min read

This island really was going to be swift hello goodbye kind of visit. We learned the hard way that the islands are very expensive, Uber taxis overpriced, public transport good, but not entirely reliable and accommodation a little pricy. With hindsight, Sardinia, unlike Sicily, would definitely have been a good place to hire a car. The first signs we saw as we left the airport were signage for motorhome sites and camping. Thinking we were going to experience another crazy busy island like Sicily, we thought this odd. Just three stays on Sardinia, flying into Alghero on the north west coast, and out from Olbia on the north east coast.

Alghero This stay began badly with a late flight and a grumpy room owner who despite having booking.com reviews stating that he accepted late night check ins, refused. We had paid in advance which was most annoying and so ended up having to book a nearby airport room with the frustration of losing one nights money at grumpys place. We refused to cancel the booking in full as that would have been an expensive loss. Turns out that Grumpy didn`t actually want us to stay, and cancelled the booking regardless. Cue Mr Bunny`s choice of alternative. Cannot fault the one nights stay at the airport hotel, the owner picked us up, and within 15 minutes of landing we were blissfully ensconced in the most deliciously comfortable beds. Such a pity this room was miles from the city, and a mere stones throw from the airport.

Room two, and one of Mr Bunny`s choosing. I must add that anything money, travel and transport is Mr Bunny`s department, whilst Mrs B arranges hotels and where we stay/go. With the rude text messages from Grumpy still in the forefront of Mr B`s mind, he decided that we should stay somewhere `nice`. Mr B`s idea of `nice` is also usually much more expensive than Mrs B`s. And therefore it was here that we begged to differ in our choices. Mrs B had her eye on a 9,2 rating bunny hutch with everything we would need, whilst Mr B won with his more expensive apartment, also with a 9.2 rating, but with the added bonus that you could choose either to watch tv, or the other person in the shower. Mr B is about to commit bunnycide, as I have every intention of posting said proof in this blog!

such a nice view from the sofa....
such a nice view from the sofa....

Alghero is quite a nice little town, we were located in the old part which I would best describe as petite and walkable. We didn`t really find a lot to see or do there, but for easy walks and views over the sea, it was quite pleasant. A lot of restaurants, but not a lot of cafes, quick stop places for breakfast were few and far between so we ate the same breakfast at a little gelateria that we found on all three mornings. We are learning the hard way that two night stays are very hard work. No sooner do you find a mini routine, then your on the move again. Alghero was no exception, with our next stop beckoning us onwards.


Castelsardo. Our second stop. Chosen for its halfway position between Alghero and Olbia. Another very, very expensive stay, in fact staying in the town itself was a non starter such were the high prices, and therefore our out of town hotel in the area of Lu Bagnu around 2 miles from Castelsardo, would be our next bunny hutch for the coming two nights. We caught a bus from Alghero to the railway station in Alghero, then from Alghero a train to Sassari, the nearest place we could get to on the train. At Sassari we then had a very long wait in what appeared to be a on oversized car park. Bus stops were dotted around its periphery but no buses. One bus did come into the `bus station` and stopped at the same place each time, we guessed this was the local town bus but there were no others. More and more people appeared, locating themselves at various different bus stops, with the majority of people standing with us at stand eleven, waiting patiently for the bus to Castelsardo. After an interminable wait the bus finally arrived at 2.30. With Mr B watching every move on his phone, making sure we did not miss our stop, just a swift 45mins later we alighted the bus that conveniently stopped right outside our next hutch. We were welcomed into the hotel by very excited staff, who were delighted to tell us that we were amongst the first guests to arrive on this, their very first day of the new holiday season. In light of this they had upgraded us to a room with a balcony, we were so happy, for a whole ten minutes, then we entered our room and saw said balcony. Brick wall view anyone? With the hotel restaurant not quite ready for guests that evening, we were recommended a nearby Eateria called Moby Dick. Not exactly a restaurant, more a landing pad with plastic sides. They too had no food for us, stating that we had arrived after lunch and prior to their dinner serving. Taking pity on us, (I think Mr B had the hang dog look of a starved man about him), they made us a couple of fresh sandwiches which to be fair were very nice. For a little bit of dessert we grabbed a couple of ice creams from their fridge and ate them sat on rocks over looking the sea.


Castelsardo. We thought we could see this town just up the coast and made plans to walk. Closer map inspection and we decided what we could see was a nearby village, and Castlesardo itself a comfortable bus ride away. Bus it was. After breakfast, and give the hotel credit, a very nice breakfast it was too, we caught the bus and headed up the coast. After a very pleasant coastal drive, the bus turned one more corner, and oh my goodness what a pretty sight befell us. The prettiest little town set into the valley and rising up into the hills. Then high up on the rocky hillside sat a castle like structure. Not a full blown castle, but something similar. The bus? went right to the very top! Yeah! Happy to say this was not the busiest place we have been to, so it was lovely to walk around. It was actually a pity that we had had such a decent breakfast, I for one felt bad about walking past so many nice looking restaurants but feeling far too sated to eat anytime soon. We bought our usual souvenir pin badge, and felt bad again. We ticked every box for the hit and run tourist and I felt awful. The big hoo ha re tourists is that we, the royal we, swarm towns, buy cheap food, cheap souvenirs and leave again. Personally I think its the cruise ships that are biggest problem, but we, the two bunnies, are a little in the hit and run category. With backpacks not suitcases, extended travel not short trips, tiny souvenirs and economic meals are our personal choices as well. Is there an answer?

We did chose to have drinks in the town, sat in a cafe on the beach, but still no food. A bus back to the hotel, and an evening meal at the Trattoria opposite the hotel. The food was lovely, the prices were not. When you add tax, bread and gratuities, your average meal price hikes up considerably.


Olbia


Bunnies on the move again. Last stop for Sardinia, and to Olbia we go. Just 94kms away, this journey was to take 8 hours.


Started with yet another very long wait for bus number one. Seventy minutes in fact. We waited so long, that Mr B started to get twitchy that our validated bus tickets were going to expire before we had even set foot on the bus. Into Sassari we landed, after the bus arrived with just 10 minutes to spare to our ticket expiration time. At the train station we asked for the time of the train, 2.45. It was now 11.45. We chose not to validate at that time, and by chance the conversation was overheard and we got told by a passerby that in fact the train was a bus due to line works, and that the train would be picked up further down the line. Naturally we still thought the leaving time was 2.45. We duly went to a nearby bar, bought 2 beers and one coffee, only to be told on leaving that Mr B had only paid for one beer and one coffee. Cue a very cross Bunny, and a furious tap tapping into google translate how he had paid card for one set of drinks, and cash for his second beer. The owner was not for agreeing, and in the end dismissed us with a curt, Prego! Usually this term is a term used for `your welcome` but can also be used at times of sarcasm and annoyance. We walked and did not look back. Leaving early was the best thing we could have done, as the train replacement bus was parked and accepting passengers. Another 10 minutes and we would have missed it. The journey to the station bypassing the line works took us on the motorway. What a bizarre experience! There was quite literally just two vehicles on the road. Our bus, and the bus in front. We have never seen a road like it. Not just the motorway either, every road we saw was devoid of movement. Even weirder, we passed a brand new road being built! Begged the question why? One hour of trafficless road later we arrived at a train station in the middle of nowhere, yet very busy. The train was in, but could we validate those tickets???? Nope. Machines not working. Mr Bunny in a panic at not being hit with a 150euro fine each for non validated tickets, promptly bought us two more using an online app that self validated. And breathe. We finally made Olbia, just grab a quick Uber and we are nearly at our new bunny hutch. Or not. Not a single taxi could we get. Not even the overpriced Uber Black would respond. Two weary, fed up bunnies faced the long walk to our new hutch. On the way we passed a large stadium with some rousing music being played, we tried to dash across the road in the hope of a sneaky listen to a free concert.....and then the whistle blew. It was a football match, the music? Their National Anthem. grrr.


Like Palermo, we were too far out to walk back into Olbia to check out the town. Deciding there and then that as neither Sicily nor Sardinia were places that we would probably return to, we cut our losses, stayed home, and watched films. Food came from the cheapest supermarket ever, and picnic we did.


The final nail in the coffin for this Island was jobsworth at the airport. For the first and only time in 200plus flights, or since 2018 in fact when it was purchased, Mrs B was asked to remove her bangle. Piffling little airport, still flying to another Italian airport, and jobsworth insisted. We were done. The bangle by the way when constantly opened and closed, changes it shape, hence my preference to leaving it alone, and in situ.


Arrivederci!

 
 
 

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About Me/Us

We are two older prematurely retired bunnies, not overly fit, with slightly wonky body bits but who have a passion for travel. We decided age is just a number and why should  only the younger generation feel the thrill of backpacking with nothing other than a carry on bag and a map. so, Here goes nothing!

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