Welcome to Peru

We planned to start our adventures in Peru in the mountains of Huaraz, what we didn`t know was what the journey would entail. Faced with a journey of 24 hours by bus including one border crossing, this was going to be epic. Now epic, bus journeys and retired more relaxed bunnies do not go together well in my book, so it was decided we would bunny hop our way to Huaraz stopping first at Chiclayo, then Trujillo, finally arriving at Huaraz. First the border crossing, I diligently read everything online, safety, what not to do, how to do it, corrupt border crossings, you name it, I read it. the truth? Peasy !! more easy peasy orange squeezy than anything I was expecting. We departed Cuenca at 9pm, expecting to be at Chiclayo by 9am (ha, we actually arrived at 1.30pm). At 1am we arrived at the border crossing. 2 buses in front of us, so we sat on the bus, and waited. A very long time granted, but there`s nothing difficult about sitting on a bus. Around 2.30 am we got off the bus taking with us all our on board bags, at the same time the bus staff removed all the luggage from the hold. We queued in the border crossing building, got our passports stamped to leave Ecuador, and moved to the next booth to have our passports stamped to say we had arrived in Peru. And that my bunny friends was as scary/complicated as it got. We had to grab our bags and put them through a security scanner as you would an airport, but that didn`t take long, and by 3.45 every bunny and all the bags were reloaded onto the bus and we were on our way to Peru.

Chiclayo, we eventually arrived here 15 hours after leaving Cuenca. Just a quick stopover so unfortunately I cannot comment on the town of Chiclayo. Food,(nearest cafe) Netflix and sleep were the only things on our mind. 15 hours on a bus was a bit hard work. The younger bunny generation make it look easy, but for us older retired bunnies, we tend to need to fidget a bit more, and stretch aching body parts. Early morning saw us on the next bus to Trujillo. 5 hours later and we arrived at what looks like a pretty city, but alas this was another city with a priority of food, the large and well advertised restaurant of El Rincon de Vallejo, provided our evening meal, and the Hotel Jorge Chavez, our bunnybeauty sleep. The hotel promised us breakfast in bed, that was a first, but alas the early morning breakfast tray consisted of cool black coffee, a fruit juice of unknown origin, 2 bread rolls (no butter) and jam. Planning on arriving at our destination of Huaraz today we set off for the bus station nice and early (unfortunately not quite early enough), and goofed. The bus to Huaraz left twice a day, we had just missed the morning bus so now had a wait of 10 hours until the evening one at 10pm.. Cue quick google search found ourselves heading for an impromptu day at the beach at the nearby town of Huanchaco. Very pleasant indeed. Not a sandy beach, but clearly an easy going beach town popular with backpackers and locals alike. Big shout out to the Chocolate Cafe, a pitstop of perfection. Back to the bus station for an overnight bus, and Huaraz our destination.

Huaraz

Mrs Bunny found the journey here very difficult. With a pitch black view from the window, and an inability to see the road ahead, the bus took on the persona of a wild mouse rollercoaster. (or for any Disney fans, a slower paced Space Mountain) Not only were we climbing through the Andes, we were also on a multitude of switch backs. This bunny had a green face and a belly that threatened to make food reappear by magic. Add in the altitude headache and I for one was not a happy bunny. We arrived as dawn was breaking, dropped our smallest bunny at the busiest hostel in the town and headed for own which was a slightly more remote hutch. We were welcomed by a lovely host, who showed us to a box room housing a single bed, and an old shelving unit on which perched a 1970s box tv. If you could kindly wait here a few minutes whilst we prepare your room, were our instructions. Given how ropey we both felt, we quite happily perched on that small bed and even managed a catnap, desperate as we were for rest and sleep. A short while later she returned and invited us to join her on the terrace for a hot drink.....I cannot deny it, that hostel roof terrace view was just spectacular. The altitude was a killer, but the view, wow. Add a tiny cute puppy called Laya, who was wearing fluffy pjs, and we thought we had hit the jackpot. Until we were shown to our room. Turns out, that tiny box room with the single bed, zero space and 70`s tv, was ours! Only now it contained a double bed. Gutted was an understatement. Booking.com what have you done to us! " 2 double beds, flat screen tv, shared kitchen with electric kettle, bathroom with bath and shower" where are you !!? Long story short, was a festival weekend and the hostel was overbooked. We were offered a reduction in price, and we made the decision to suck it up and deal with it. the bed was comfy, the small tiny roof ceiling height window, wasn`t too big to be draughty, the shelf unit with cupboard was useful and the private bathroom had a shower with hot water. winner. Then we found the kitchen. Truly you couldn`t make this up. The fitted kitchen as per the photos, was actually the kitchen in the hosts private apartment, and the shared kitchen/ours was a wooden hut on the roof. But you know what, we came to love this place. Sometimes first impressions need to be shelved, and Mr Bunny does like a culinary challenge.

The Mountains of Huaraz.

Huaraz sits in a valley surrounded by some of the most spectacular hills and mountains and is known for its superb hiking trails. Hiking here had never been on my bucket list, and being there at such high altitude meant it would be a non starter for me even if I had wanted to hike. Im finding as a retired bunny, my need to climb every mountain has been surpassed by more relaxing itinerary Our super fit smallest bunny took herself on some some glorious hikes see miss.tiff.travels for more information, but one hike, the famous and utterly spectacular Laguna 69, was a must do for Mr bunny and little miss.tiff. They set off at 4am, leaving on a bouncy bus for 3 hours, followed by a 4 mile uphill challenging hike to the Laguna 69. I saw the photos on their return, and for once, Instagram is absolutely 100% accurate. that laguna is every bit as blue and beautiful as every picture you see. I had to admit I was a little jealous and sad that I was physically unable to see this for myself, but I am so proud of the efforts of my bunny family.

Huaraz the town. In my opinion this is a town to be used as a base only for hiking, or in my case, for sitting on a roof top terrace under beautiful cloudless skies with a cute pup and a good book for company. It is not a pretty town at all, in fact I would go so far to describe it as slightly run down, scruffy, dusty, and with a lot of air pollution at ground level due to the extreme age and condition of most of the cars there, coupled with the terrible state of the roads. Would I recommend it? If you like your hiking, absolutely. If hiking isn`t your thing, I would probably give it a miss.

Lima

A tale of 2 halves, from Huaraz to Lima, a bus journey of around 8 hours, but this time, with recommendations from hostel guests, we discovered the bus company Cruz del Sur. Game changer! Every other bus journey we had made we had either travelled with whoever shouted the loudest, departed at a time when we wanted to go, or was the only company we found at the bus terminal. Now, Cruz del Sur have their own bus terminal, and their own schedules and for us it was like travelling business bunny class instead of regular hutch seats. We didn`t find them particularly expensive, just on a par with everyone else, but the buses are beautiful and so much more comfortable. If only we had found them sooner :-( . Knowing we had booked accommodation in Miraflores, we knew we had to disembark at the second bus station. And so we travelled from Huaraz. Passing desert landscapes, tiny village, smallish town, and more desert landscapes, and more, and more and still more. So much land, so few people. Until that moment when a small shop was next to a larger shop, next to a street, next to full blown neon lights, a beautiful and huge city. Lima really did seem to arrive out of nowhere. For 3 bunnies who really enjoy the green country side, after our time in Huaraz, Lima arrived like a cool drink on a hot day. We thought the first side of the city, ( as viewed from the bus) was pretty special, but travelling another 30 mins to the second terminal and the area of Miraflores we felt quite giddy. Our hostel I want to describe as the little house from Up, just at that bit prior to the balloons when the little house is surrounded by high rise buildings and blocks of flats. It was a 2 story building painted orange, with arched windows and a small garden, totally out of place within the area, but oh so perfect. (So perfect in fact we returned to stay here again, but more about that later). Less than 5 minutes from the promenade and the Pacific Ocean, and 15 mins walk from the centre of Miraflores, we couldn`t have had a better placed hostel. True we took more than 15 taxis during our stay to reach other parts of the city, but as hostels go, Great Partners is perfect. Sunday, a perfect day. Bright, sunny and warm, we geared up for a walk along the beach front. (Actually the road runs along the beach front, the promenade itself runs for around 6 km along the cliff). There are many different parks and green spaces along the promenade, we watched dogs at the dog park play (all wearing coats or jumpers of course as seems to be the norm in Peru), boys at play flexing their muscles and rather nice bods on the climbing frames/gyms, people playing tennis, brave bunnies floating around in the air on paragliders, wet bunnies flopping off surf boards, and the skinny bunnies in their micro leotards and earphones jogging. (not sure why, but hey ho, each to their own). Such a perfect day. Monday came and we found out that we had seen Lima weather at its best. Apparently Lima is notoriously grey, cloudy and chilly, at least during the winter. Chilly has to be a description best used loosely, the locals wore jumpers, puffy coats, scarves, some wore t shirts and loose jackets, us brits wandered quite comfortably in just our t shirts and jeans. Take our hostel, it was difficult to tell what difference opening a window made, the ambient temperature inside and out were pretty similar. There are archaeological ruins in the centre of Miraflores an easy walk from the hostel. Afraid I`m no more a ruins fan than I am of birds, we did a guided tour but all I managed to glean from said information is that this big pile of bricks, shaped a bit like a pyramid are made of mud and have sat here for around 1000 years. Yes, its interesting, but as far as archaeology goes, I far more enjoy seeing the collected artifacts than the piles of bricks left behind. (See Larco Museum). Day 3 found us at the Larcomar Shopping Mall. I am in need of a long sleeved thin jumper, but this was not to be the place to shop. Very tiny, situated on the cliffs overlooking the ocean, Larcomar consists of mostly super expensive shops, and a cinema, but it was there that we found the Tanta restaurant chain. Oh Yum. The food looked superb, but so did the cakes. 3 guesses which we had. So ends our brief time in Lima, but we are to return....

Huacachina.

I proper had to stamp my little bunny feet to persuade Mr Bunny that this was a place worth seeing. He was very much of the opinion that our destination of Atacama later in the trip would be much the same, so why do we have to go here?. His little bunny nose waffled in frustration, but Mrs Bunny won the draw as usual. A short bus ride from Lima (about 4.5 hours) and we arrived in Ica, from there to Huacachina is the shortest bunny hop ever, literally just over the sand dune, (or round the sand dune if you are driving) you could walk if needed, but that is only recommended on weekends and holidays, and for bunnies without heavy backpacks. We caught our first glance at the oasis of Huacachina just as the sun was going down, and an instant apology from Mr Bunny ensued. He even dared to say those 3 little words we all crave, You Were Right. The tiny town oasis of Huacachina is picture postcard perfect. It was hard to tell that first evening just how much we were going to enjoy our brief stay there, but morning came, and all was revealed in a blaze of glory. What you see is what you get, it really is that tiny. The only natural oasis in South America (yes, it is natural, but yes, it is also topped up by hosepipe as and when required) Huacachina is also surrounded by the biggest sand dunes on the continent. And sand dunes mean only one thing, tired legs, dune buggies and sandboarding!! (ok, 3 things if you want to be picky) The morning of day one we paid our tourist tax (no ticket, no dunes) and duly climbed the tiniest little sand dune ever, just to get a giraffes eye view of the Oasis. From that view point we also found all the ticket sellers for dune buggy rides, and the dune buggies themselves! Oh wow. They come in all sizes from small and cute, think small children and pregnant woman, to full on adventure types with roll cages and bull bars. We each knew there and then that this was a must do activity. We also knew that we wanted to go armed with cameras, go pro, buffs, glasses, jackets, water, and a private buggy driver who would respect our individual needs. Back into town, we found a tour guide with impeccable English to ensure no misunderstandings, and one hour later we had a private buggy tour booked, leaving at 4.30pm that day so that we would also catch the sunset. Excited was an understatement. We stressed that whilst we or rather Mr Bunny could endure a lot, we didn`t think his back surgeon would condone a wild buggy ride! Turns out the buggies need driving at a certain speed (super fast) simply to get up the dunes. We have never had as much fun ever, we traversed those dunes so fast, we had the ride of our lives. To compare, the "Adventure Buggies" were flying over dunes, driving down massive dunes, with hard speedy landings, whereas we just went flat out keeping all 4 wheels on the sand. Sandboarding next! Who knew. We hadn`t realised that we had body boards strapped to the back of the buggy. One biggish dune and down we went, then up a second smaller one, finally boarding down a third. Not a sport I could do all day long, at least not without a sandwinch, not to eat, but to hoist my bunny butt and its sandy board back up the dunes, what a leg killer! Finally as the sun started to go down, we were driven at full hop to the highest dune our driver could find to watch a perfect sunset. What an amazing couple of hours. Once the sun set, Myself and Mr Bunny waited whilst our little bunny was taken on a wild ride around the dunes, we heard the screams of laughter from quite some distance away.

Day two. Mr Bunny quite fancied the wine tasting tour. Who knew Peru made wine? Turns out they don`t, well not much anyway. He described the vineyards more like small fields, where wine is only produced in March. Still, he had fun, and enjoyed the small wine samples offered. Whilst big bunny did wining and dining mini adventure, bunnies two and three had a picnic at the waters edge. Huacachina is all about dune buggies, sand dunes and sandboarding. To be honest, there isn`t a lot else to do. You cannot even take your picnic onto the dunes without paying the tourist tax again. (disclaimer, yes you can from the road or further afield, but I am referring to the immediate area around the oasis) You could if you so wished exert a little effort by hiring a pedalo to enjoy the lake, or even hire a small boat that came with its own rower if you didn`t fancy any more leg work, but other than that, and eating/drinking/late night Karaoke, im not sure what else there is to do in the immediate area. A tour to Paracas could have been an option, but when it is described as Peru`s mini Galapagos, we figured we would just stick to our memories of the real place.

Day 3. Another day that wasn`t to go as planned. It had been my intention to get a taxi to Ica, a bus to Nazca, and take a flight over the Nazca line the same afternoon. But the bus company I researched, and I think what the tour guide tried to tell me, but I failed to understand, was that the buses don`t leave Ica in sufficient time to arrive at the airport before the flights stop for the day. My bus times were either 2.30am getting in at 5am or left at midday arriving too late. Time for another organised tour!.

Nazca.

Picked up at 7am by car, with a 4th person, we were driven to Nazca by a lovely tour guide who talked continuously for the whole 2 hours 30 mins journey. Our ears ached, but his information was enlightening and interesting. Including facts such as his two children were representing Peru in a maths competition in Malaysia. (well done kids!) He himself was an ex cycling champion, and that asparagus grows 15 cm in a day and can be cut twice. He also drove like Nigel Mansell. To say our journey was hair raising at times would be an understatement. I could tell you that we stopped at an aqua duct, but truthfully to me it was more rocks and water. The museum dedicated to Marie Reiche was a little more interesting, despite the fact that all the original artifacts dedicated to her life had been stolen and what we saw were copies. Marie Reiche is the German woman who spent a lifetime studying and mapping the Nazca lines. A truly incredible feat given the sheer size and area that they cover. So, to the airport. This may have been a bucket list experience for me, but it still didn`t calm my overwhelming nerves or fear. Oh my bunny knickers, what on earth was I thinking! Those planes are like oversized remote control toys, flown by geeks in anoraks on Sundays afternoons, and you want me to go in that !!! Insult number one, we each had to be weighed. Humph. If those scales are accurate I`ll plait fog. Anyway, turns out Mr and Mrs Bunny cannot fly together. Mrs and Miss could, but Mr Bunny would be going in a separate plane. Once we boarded our respective planes it was clear that this didn`t really matter. Its a bit like riding a super cool rollercoaster, your friend may be next to you but you each enjoy the experience on your own. Mine and little Miss plane was super tiny, I sat in the front, little miss at the back. You each wear headphones so that you cant hear the screams...I mean so that you can each hear the commentary of the co pilot, and we were off!. We had been given a map of what we would see and where to see it, on the ground or on a mountain side, or on a plateau, and the plane would first fly so that everyone on the left could see, then did a wide circle to back track in a way that everyone on the right could see the shapes. The plane and the terrain were both terrifying and fantastic at the exact same time. The Nazca lines are incredible. I never knew just what an immense area they covered. There are shapes, and patterns, animals, birds, a cat, a `baby dinosaur` and lines. Perfect straight lines that go on for miles, yet nothing of which can be seen from the ground. The flight lasted 35 mins which seemed to be the limit of most people on board. I think any longer and the bags located in the seat pockets may well have come into play. For someone who hates flying, I am so proud of myself for managing to overcome this fear long enough to fulfil my dream of flying over the Nazca lines. Mr Bunnies experience of the lines was very different to mine. Their co pilot failed to give enough information as to where to look for the shapes so he missed seeing quite a few, and their plane was a small jet shaped plane, more modern looking than ours, so they had to bank further so that the passengers could spot the lines at the wing tips. For any bunnies out there wanting to experience the lines from above, make sure you stamp your little bunny toes and get the information prior to take off.

Return to Lima

We returned to Lima with the intention of staying in the same hostel, Great Partners, it ticked every box including comfy bed, hot showers, decent price, why go hunting for anything else?, and also to visit the must see tourist spots that we missed first time around. These included the `famous` water fountains/water park, Lima Zoo, Larco Museum and Barranco. The fountains and the park were nice, nothing spectacular, but it passed a pleasant evening. Lima Zoo, for a zoo tucked away in the City Centre, it wasn`t bad. They do have a large array of the more unusual animals and birds, but personally the animal enclosures are far too small, and lack stimulation for the inhabitants. It was sad to see the walking path in its entirety for 2 full grown tigers. Sadder still was the very small aviary housing the worlds largest bird, the Andean Condor. For a bird that can soar at heights of up to 16,000ft his cage was pitifully small. I just hope he was a rescue bird with a story to tell. We did meet the real life Paddington, aka the Spectacled Bear. They were fun, and their play space a little better than most. Larco Museum. A very pretty museum, with an equally pretty (and expensive) restaurant on site, most definitely not your average museum cafe. The museum itself is unique in such that it has many of its archived artifacts in visible floor to ceiling glass cabinets. Much as I like seeing old artifacts, once you have seen one old vase with an eagles head, the other 155 start to look pretty similar. The more precious artifacts, gold jewellery and other fine objects are displayed with the decorum they richly deserve. If you chose to visit with younger bunnies, especially those under the age of 16, you may wish to skip the erotic pottery exhibition, but for older bunnies it was quite fun seeing the artifacts depicting you know what....and not just the what, but the where and the how !! Barranco, in order to appreciate this district we opted for a free walking tour. Have to admit though, we were very glad it was a free tour, for if we had paid to be shown just one square block in the district of Barranco we would have been stamping our bunny feet with the greatest of displeasure. In a nutshell we covered the Bridge of Sighs or Punta de los Suspiros, (hold your breath as you cross and make a wish), a little artisan market, buy the Picarones! yummy yummy, a bridge tunnel covered in wall art, and an advisory of the best (or as it turned out for us the worst) restaurant in which to eat. Walking tour of Barranco? Pah, go yourself, you will see so much more. By the way, the best restaurant serving the local speciality, Cow Heart, meat on an skewer, was voted a resounding failure. ( I wont reveal the restaurant name as that would be unfair, they were very busy, but with a local clientele). Perhaps Cow Heart is an acquired taste. There was nothing about the taste or texture of this traditional dish that floated big bunny`s boat, and he is usually a proper meat foodie. Mrs Bunny had chicken, and corn on the cob, but nothing at all like the yellow sweet corn we are used to at home. to say we were disappointed in our choices in what was advised to be the best restaurant, would be an understatement. With our time in Lima at an end, it would be true to say we were a little sad to be leaving. Lima, we have loved you.

Cusco

From Lima we opted to fly to Cusco rather than endure a 21 hour bus ride. such a good decision. What a fantastic flight, the scenery was just fabulous, watching mountains out of both the left side and right side of the plane simultaneously, hitting the deck as we landed at the airport whilst still viewing said mountains was quite special. Take a deep breath everyone, Cusco, we are here. Located in the middle of the Andes Mountains at an altitude of 3399 metres above sea level, Cusco really does quite literally, take your breath away. Everything you read about visiting Cusco implies that it is simply an overrun tourist city, a place for which a couple of days will suffice, and the starting point for Machu Picchu. Where on earth do people get these ideas? Cusco is just beautiful. We loved every minute of our time in Cusco. We stayed for an extended period of time for a couple of reasons. Acclimatising, we aimed to give ourselves 3 days to adjust and adapt to the altitude. We then needed a further 4 days, allowing little bunny time to walk, sorry, hike the very challenging Salkantay Trek to Machu Picchu. A hike of some 4 or 5 days covering a distance of up to 46 miles. We then spent a further 2 days at Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu, before returning to Cusco for a further 2 days, giving glutton for punishment little bunny a chance to visit the Rainbow Mountain (for full details of these hikes, visit miss.tiff.travels) Personally Mr and Mrs Bunny had seen enough photos of Rainbow mountain to know that the vivid colours as portrayed via Instagram or other adverts were a little exaggerated. We really didn`t find it necessary to endure more long drives and high altitude to take photos of coloured mountains with a multitude of other tourists.

Cusco. What a beautiful old city, so very different to anywhere we have been. cobbled narrow streets, winding paths, large open squares, tourist shops galore, Cusco has a lot to offer. Yes, we did find ourselves overwhelmed by the hassle of the street sellers, most, but not all understanding that No, really does mean NO, and not yes I want to buy something I neither like nor want... but they are friendly and their pressure selling is a genuine need to make money. Many of the items are very nice, but so is your money, and if you don`t want something, be firm but kind with your rejections. The main square of Cusco, Plaza Mayor is a fabulous place to people watch, or even watch a parade,(we saw three in our brief time there). There are many balcony restaurants dotted around the square, and all have great views. We had a personal favourite, it faced the old cathedral and was situated in one corner. The food was pleasant, the coffee ok, the beer was cheap, the tea tasted like smoked sausages, but the view and the hospitality made up for everything it lacked. When you cannot cope with the altitude, have no desire to hike or go on endless days trips or face the barrage of street sellers, or the endless tat of t.s. shops these restaurants make for great bolt holes.

Machu Picchu and the Sacred Valley

Where to begin? The biggest bucket list destination of our entire 5 months South America trip. To sit at home and see pictures of Machu Picchu in all its enigmatic glory, perched high in the Andes Mountains, built by the Incas, and knowing that there was a chance I could go? What a dream. We planned our entire first half of South America around this special place. What I didn`t expect after endlessly researching how to get there, was how easy and relatively cheap it is to visit. It is no harder to visit MP, than it is to visit the Eiffel Tower. From the moment you enter Peru you are battered with tours to Machu Picchu (MP) day trips, two day trips, 3 day tours. Every single tourist shop flaunting pictures from every angle, fridge magnets, t shirts, mugs, cups, plates, toys, pin badges etc of this wonderful place. Truth be known I became quite sad and disillusioned. The MP of my dreams, was a quiet, special, remote, and unique place, not a glorified over booked tourist destination. The reality prior to my visit, and especially in and around Cusco, bordered on a disappointment that such a magical place be treated with such irreverence, to an overwhelming excitement that I really was going to go and see it for myself. Even acquiring tickets for your circuit of choice (do your homework bunnies) is not the nightmare people insist it is, unless you want circuit 2 classic which is booked up months in advance. We purchased 2 tickets, for Circuit 2 lower, twenty days prior to our visit, peak season. You buy the tickets online, being careful to use the correct official Ministry website www.machupicchu.gob.pe you must then purchase the transport of your choice. MP, or rather its closest town of Aguas Calientes, (AC) is accessed by train only. There are many trains each day, and you can choose between IncaRail or PeruRail. You could choose to pay £1000s and experience the very beautiful Bingham Luxury trains, or simply take the cheaper, but still fabulous Peru Rail bus to Ollantaytambo, then the train to AC. All buses go via Ollantaytambo, and all trains take the same fabulous 27 miles route through the Sacred Valley from there as well. We opted for the very beautiful Peru Rail vistadome train/coach, with a return journey in what we thought was going to be a normal train carriage, but turned out to still be a vistadome carriage, with just a few less trimmings. The return Bi Modal transfer was approx £57 ppew.

The Journey.

Still apprehensive about the over commercialisation of Machu Picchu, and how the journey would pan out, my fears of en mass cheap coaches leaving busy bus stations, filled with chatting tourists, backpacks and cameras quickly abated as we approached the Peru Rail Railway/Bi Modal Station. Greeted by a smartly dressed railway host we were escorted quietly to the most beautiful waiting room with its peaceful ambience, tranquil sounds of the Beatles music played on pan pipes, the smell of roast coffee, comfortable chairs and carpeted floors. Guests were appropriately dressed as befits the majesty of Machu Picchu, and suddenly I felt calm and relaxed. We were escorted across the railway lines to the small but smart little transfer buses, the whole process of transferring people immaculately organised. On board the coach for around 2 hours of the most glorious scenery, we finally arrived into Ollantaytambo. Whilst we were not given chance to view anything of this small town as we were briskly escorted to the soon departing train, I have a feeling Ollantaytambo is a place that we could quite happily have spent (and dearly wish we had) several days. The train the station, the feeling of excitement is almost palpable. Every aspect is exquisitely managed, from the railway station cafe to the boarding of the trains. You are left in no doubt of where you need to be at any given time. Of course you will always find one set of `those` people, the instagrammers who believe a place belongs solely to them, the overly loud person who thinks everyone and their dog should listen to their conversation, and the travellers who are convinced you need to take oversized suitcases to every destination.... (get a life people!)

We all boarded the trains to the sounds of Inca chanting and bells, as dancers whooped and chanted along the trackside and we were off.

The Sacred Valley.

No amount of research or videos could have prepared us for the majesty, serenity, peace and vistas of this glorious train ride through the Sacred Valley. We had eyes on stalks as we surveyed every inch of the views through our multitude of glass windows in our beautiful railway carriage. The extra few dollars spent choosing this particular carriage was more than worth it. Truly Magnificent. Any other words would diminish the beauty of this valley. It truly does seem sacred and unspoilt. As the train joins the river side you are treated to the scale and sheer size of the rocks and boulders with which the Incas had to work. Even the river itself offers a taste of beauty. Every now and again we caught glimpses of the hardy trekkers and their devoted porters ( our own little bunny included) as they traversed on foot the paths the Incas made before them. We salute you. For twenty seven miles and one and a half hours of spectacular scenery we wended our way through the mountains to the town of Aguas Calientes and the valley home of Machu Picchu.

Aguas Calientes.

From the sublime to the ridiculous. This town is the epitome of tourist central. As soon as you disembark the train the mass commercialisation hits you full in the face once more. Aguas Calientes serves only for tourist to sleep, eat, drink, shop, and to catch the bus (or walk) to Machu Picchu, which thankfully cannot be seen from this blight on the landscape of The Sacred Valley. A slight miscalculation in my timings put us in the town for 2 nights. With better planning and a little knowledge, one night is more than sufficient. There are pockets of beauty within the town itself, but nothing compared to the journey you have already done. Purchase yourselves a return bus ticket up the mountain, the shop is well sign posted and easy to find, 12 dollars ppew. And now, with tickets in hand, eat, sleep and awake fresh and excited at 4.30 am, your visit to Machu Picchu has begun.

Machu Picchu.

The bus queue, which you simply cannot miss as it winds down the street by the river, starts at around 4.30am, with the first bus leaving at 5.30am prompt. Your tickets and passports are scanned as you queue, and the boarding is fast and efficient. The little buses are boarded quickly and leave immediately. The speedy journey up the mountain takes around 25 minutes. As you depart the bus, clearly signposted Banos( bathrooms) are in front of you, with very clear indications that there are no toilets within MP, nor will you be allowed to back track or leave/re enter once in this sacred place.

We had planned to arrive at dawn, to see the sunrise over M.P. Alas mother nature, or in Peru ,Pachamama will always dictate the weather. We arrived onto the classic viewpoint, a cloudy morning meant that we were unable to view MP in all its glory, but instead it did give us a very atmospheric almost eerie view of the sheer height and splendour of this amazing place. Due to new regulations and visitor numbers, the authorities have produced `circuits` limiting numbers of people to certain routes, and guiding people along on well marked but very specific pathways avoiding hot spots and overcrowding by maintaining a strict one way system, but this does actually work. There were many many people at MP, but at no time did we ever feel crowded or rushed. The guides are knowledgeable and respectful, giving you sufficient time in each place to talk and discuss the building and daily life of the Inca people of MP, before moving on as the next group arrived. We never overlapped, nor did we ever have to jostle for space. Is it everything we ever dreamed of? Oh yes. Very much so. It was also very respected and with zero tolerance for noise or silliness. Once more I felt at peace, knowing that Machu Picchu was truly respected for the sacred place that it is. I feel proud, privileged and humble to have been able to fulfil my dream and tick off yet another bucket list item that is Machu Picchu.

Salineras de Maras and Moray

A short trip away from the centre of Cusco brings you to these 2 places. We were picked up from the main square of Cusco at 8,45, driven for around one hour to a nearby town where we had a short but interesting demonstration of textile making, (why has nobody marketed that plant shampoo?, I have never seen dirty wool wash so clean with good old Persil..one quick grate of a certain plant, add water and wash, voila, pure white wool, was amazing!) anyway, every good demonstration( attentively watched by 3 nosy alpacas), has to end in a shop and this tour was no exception. A wonderful shop granted, but like any tourist tour shop, just a little overpriced. A note of consternation, the pens in which we had our little demonstration had a small run to the side of us containing little guinea pigs, they looked ever so cute and tame, I couldn`t help wondering if they knew they were destined to be spit roasted..... We continued onto Moray, which is an old Incan ruin of unknown purpose. It is thought that they served as agricultural terraces as it does have an irrigation system. Looking down on the site from above it was hard to appreciate its true size and scale, but when you note that your average sized person would have to climb, not step from terrace to terrace, the scale becomes pretty impressive.

From Moray to Maras, only a short drive away further into the mountains, and suddenly you are confronted with the mountain side view of Salineras de Maras, the Salt plateau. A truly impressive sight. Over 4700 salt pools cascade down the mountain side, each fed by natural hot water spring that has flowed through the mountain for over 110 million years. The salt is collected on a monthly basis and each salt pool can produce over 150kgs. The amount of salt produced by these salt pools is quite staggering, 4 million kgs per year has been the estimated production. That`s a lot of salt if you ask me!